Mak

iTrader: (0)

I have a Finnex 30 gallon.. with no sump...
Here's what I am going plan to do, I would like to get some feedback if this is going work or not..

I have a TLF PhosBan Reactor 150 & Current 1/10 Chiller.. I am planning to have the hose from the tank connect to the phosban Reactor 150 and from the out-take of the phosban reactor to the intake of the chiller, and then from the chiller out-take back to the tank.. Is this going work?

Thanks

JF2381

iTrader: (1)

The phosban reactor needs a lot less flow than the chiller.

Mak

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How about the other way around?? Connect tank to the chiller first, then from the chiller to the PhosBan Reactor and then back to the tank. What do you think?

fritz

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Yes you would definitely want the chiller first but I have to ask....

WHY are you chilling a 30 gallon tank? Something is wrong if you need to chill a 30 gallon tank.

Mak

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Last week when we have the heatwave. My tank were at 95, and I lost a cleaner Shrimp and some coral and fishes.. And I don't wanna lose anything during this summer...

mheaven

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I dont think there is nothing wrong with a chiller on a 30g tank. i have a chiller set up in my 30Cube. Thats what metal halides do to water. It does raise the temp. I have 4 fans and thats not enough.

Mak: i would just conect the chiller on its own.

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Dec.07 Oceanic 33g Cube w/29g fuge & 29g sump custom made. Custom made stand & canopy. 250w HQI MH w/2 24w T5 HO Actinics. MTC 250 Skimmer, 25w Aquavue UV, OM 4way, MRC CR2 Calcium Reactor, Coralife 1/6 HP Chiller,Carbon Reactor. Iwaki MD70RLT Return Pump that runns all equipment mentioned above, except Skimmer powered by Little Giant 3-MDQX-SC. As for live stock look at post.

mynd

iTrader: (0)

Yes, just connect the chiller on its own.. You do not want to restrict the flow of the external pump back to the tank.. This will cause pump cavitation and probably ruin your pump or have it jumping on the table. I also suggest as in my photo putting a piece of cushion under the pump and screw the pump to the table. ( I used a piece of a pc wrist rest ) Do not try and limit the flow out of the pump into the chiller, use a pump that will provide the proper GPH with the overhead of the hoses used only.

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Experience: 16 Years Salt Water

chogra

iTrader: (2)

Pump to chiller, Tee the output from the chiller, one side of the Tee going to the Phosban Reactor, then into the tank, and the other straight to the tank.

fritz

iTrader: (0)

I never ran a chiller on any of my MH tanks. I did set my AC to 78 degrees and leave it on during the day. That was enough to keep the tank from getting too hot.

My problem with chillers is every goes and buys one when often they don't need it. I wonder how many people vent their chiller outside? Most setups that I've seen people don't. They have the chiller next to the tank. The chiller kicks on and starts blowing hot air into the already scorching room. Your tanks drops one degree and the room raises 2 degrees. You already have an insanely humid room as is with the high temp your tank has likely lost a LARGE amount of water through evaporation.

Adding hot air to a hot and humid room is the last thing you want to do. Now as your chiller continues to heat the room it needs to work harder to keep the tank cold in this oven you've created.

That was my point about chillers. Keep your curtains closed, top as open as possible and leave your AC at 78. It will use MUCH less electricity than your chiller will (if not vented), it will keep your house cool and keep the humidity low which will allow the tank to cool itself via evaporation.

Ah but I digress

chogra

iTrader: (2)

I could'nt agree with you more. It makes no sense to me, to pay the same amount for a piece of equipment to cool both the room and the tank, then to cool the tank and heat the room.