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Old 05-27-2011, 12:58 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Interesting concept but are you sure these fans have enough "oomph" to draw enough air through these tubes?
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:11 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I have tested the thing out and they draw more air than I thought they would. I really can't tell if it is enough until I get the lights on.
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:56 AM   #23 (permalink)
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They seem to work. This is without the lenses on and with all lights at full brilliancy.
I temporarilly hung it on my tank like this and they seem to be almost twice as bright as my 300 watts of MH lights. I am seeing places in my tank I never knew existed. When I get the dimming working I will have to adjust it for more blue as it is too bright and white.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
This is the MH lights. They almost look like the same brightness in the picture but the picture lies.
The LEDs are much brighter. The MH lights have a nicer color which is why I will have to dim the white lights and leave the blue lights on higher.
Notice in the MH picture, you can't see my powerheads at the sides of the tank. Now I will have to hide those.
I didn't try that yet but the fish all hid with the LED lights, they thought they were on a stage and had to perform
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
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WOW Paul they do seem a lot brighter, be careful not to burn your corals, LED's tend to do that. Just watch them to see how they react to the changes. Nice fixture build by the way.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:35 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks, I won't install them until I get the dimming working. They are much brighter than I thought and only one third of the electricity. So far they don't even get warm and that is without even having the fans on.
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Paul, set you camera on a tripod and set your exposure to manual settings. Take pics of MH and LEDs with the same exact settings (aperture/s. speed/white balance) and you'll see the exact difference side by side. Very easy to do.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Puffer, I usually use a tripod, you are correct. Those lights were not really installed so I didn't go crazy. They were just hanging on string with no reflectors installed. Now they are completed and hopefully either tonight of tomorrow I can install them. Then I will take before and after pictures.
Thanks Paul
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:12 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Now the thing is 99% completed. Here it is with the control box with the 3 dimmers and fan switch.
Click the image to open in full size.
Here are the old (Plaza Hotel) MH lights. Anyone need any slightly used 150 watt 14,000K MH lamps? free.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the new fixture hung over the tank, that of course is in the blue mode
Click the image to open in full size.
This is with all the lights almost at full brilliancy.
So far after 30 minutes the fixture is still at room temperature.
Click the image to open in full size.
All I have to do next is to build the pulley system so I can raise the fixture out of the way to remove rocks and what not. Now it is still hung on string.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Now the system is 100% done. I installed a pulley system that raises the LED fixture about a foot so it goes out of the way for maintenance. I just have to slightly tough it and it rises. The plastic container (counterweight) is filled with lead shot.
I love this stuff.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:03 AM   #30 (permalink)
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WOW paul, looks really nice and super bright.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:34 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks, yes they are bright, light, cool and cheap to run
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:05 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I am happy to say that my reef is 5 degrees cooler than it should be for this time of the year. Outside it is almost 100 degrees and my tank usually runs about 87 degrees in the summer which is a little hot.
Now the tank is a comfortable 82 degrees which is fine.
The LEDs emit just about zero heat and you can put your hand right on the lenses without feeling anything.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:50 PM   #33 (permalink)
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dang that is really hot temps you had, and even now still seems a bit higher than what i normally see. Mine stays around 78-79.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:46 PM   #34 (permalink)
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WOW! 87 is pretty high Paul, it's amazing you had no losses..
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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My fish are just warming up at 87. It has gone higher than that but I never had any losses. If it goes into the 90s I throw a gallon of ice in there in a Clorox Bottle.
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Old 06-09-2011, 05:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Your luckier than I was, I can tell that much.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:24 AM   #37 (permalink)
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That pretty much goes agains everything i have seen and read but i guess it is possible, could your thermometer be reading the wrong temp? I was told Catalinas would never survive in my tank with my temps but they have been doing great and growing and do not look stressed at all so if one aspect is possible, i am sure yours is too. I remember swimming in my countrys waters and it was soupy warm and i used to catch a bunch of shrimps and baby puffers. (i dont know what the water temp is in my country but it felt really warm)
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:30 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Catalinas would never survive in my tank with my temps but they have been doing great and growing and do not look stressed at all so if one aspect is possible, i am sure yours is too.
Catalina's are not tropical fish and need lower temps. I use a glass thermometer and I check it with another one. The aquarium thermometers are way off.
I know my tanik was too hot but it is what it is.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:48 PM   #39 (permalink)
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My tank has gone over 83 recently and before I had a chiller 82 and change used to be norm.

At around 83 kenyas are first to close down.

The truth is its also what your inhabitants are used to. I am not sure about 87+ but logically if a tank is kept at 77 degrees for years and someting fails and it goes to 83 it's a toast. But if the tank is normally kept at around 82 then a degree or two north wont wipe it.

This is probably easier for me with only softies and ocasional LPS, SPS might be completely different and do require lower temps.

This is the third summer with a chiller for me and I keep it at 79-81. I'd like to keep it a tad lower so that if there is a black-out I'd have couple of degrees spare before things start boiling but another degree lower and the chiller goes on twice as often.

That wouldn't bother me but until I get a duct that will carry the hot air outside from the chiller it just heats up the living room.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:27 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
This is probably easier for me with only softies and ocasional LPS
I also have mostly LPS with only 3 SPS. 87 in my tank is normal in the summer. This year I threw out the MH lights and installed LEDs so it is much cooler. I also designed a chiller but now I don't think I will need it.
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